Brandy

We found a significant difference in the amount of liquid exuded by fresh versus frozen sour cherries when cooked. If your cherries give off a lot of liquid, you may have to reduce your syrup a little longer.

One of my favorite classic bistro dishes is steak Diane, a paragon of quick cooking that finds steak swathed in a cream sauce mightily seasoned with mustard and enhanced with cognac. The next time you feel yourself feeling those bistro pangs, try my take on steak Diane, made with chicken instead of beef, and my version of the traditional sauce with shallots and mustard. Roasted garlic mashed potatoes is a perfect accompaniment; the potatoes will soak up the sauce. Or serve it with fries and an ice-cold Belgian beer.

A far is a custardy pudding cake, similar to a clafouti but with a dense, smooth, flan-like texture. This one, studded with brandy-soaked prunes and raisins, is the signature pastry of Brittany, served for breakfast as well as dessert.

This fabulous sorbet is a twist on the classic prune Armagnac ice cream. The prunes can macerate in the Armagnac indefinitely if kept in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.

The thickness and bitterness of your drink will depend on your chocolate's level of cacao, which varies among brands. We got great results with Ghirardelli, which produced a full-bodied cocoa (our preference for dunking the ginger doughnuts). We also used Lindt to good effect, but needed to add more cornstarch for extra thickening. Chocolate with more than 60 percent cacao will be too bitter.

This punch — containing rum, Cognac, and peach brandy — is potent. If it packs a bit too much of a wallop for your taste, you can dilute it with cold black tea, a common mixer for this particular punch, or with seltzer water, for a bit of fizz. Some punch bowls may not be big enough to accommodate the size ice block we call for — feel free to use other freezing containers that are more suitably shaped. And though the block is a classic part of this recipe, you can, of course, simply serve the punch in a pitcher over ice cubes.

Sliced strawberries infuse raspberry brandy with fresh berry flavor, and the strained liqueur is topped off with Champagne.

The leftover brandied cherries will keep for up to two weeks in the refrigerator. For an attractive garnish, thread a 4x1/2-inch strip of orange peel on a short skewer and top with a cherry, then place in drink before serving.

When the Two-Dollar Cocktail was so named, over a half century ago, the amount of cash in question was a substantial sum. The French brandy  — Cognac, if you like  — certainly contributes to its value.