Egg

An Italian frittata is an open-faced omelet similar to a Spanish tortilla. A French omelet is cooked very quickly over high heat, and additions like herbs, cheese, or vegetables are enclosed in the center of a two- or three-part fold. Frittatas and tortillas are cooked more slowly. The additional ingredients are whisked into the eggs and cooked at the same time. This delicious and easy dish makes a satisfying, simple supper with a side salad. Or take the Spanish approach, and cut the frittata into bite-size cubes and serve it skewered as a simple hors d’oeuvre. Ham and eggs are, of course, a marriage made in heaven. Used cured ham in this recipe, or if using country ham, halve the amount, so it will not be too salty.

Strata is the plural of stratum, and whether we’re talking about rocks or recipes, it refers to layering. Here, it is a breakfast casserole layered and bound with custard, almost like a savory bread pudding. What’s great about a strata is that it should be prepared and refrigerated the night before. The next morning, all you need to do is let it come to room temperature on the counter and bake. I’ve used fresh sage, an herb with soft, fuzzy gray-green leaves and a slightly bitter finish, to complement the flavor of the sausage and create another layer of flavor. It goes well with poultry, pork, and veal. Look for fresh bunches with no bruising and a clean, pungent aroma.

I made these once for a political fundraiser at my friend Melita Easter’s house, attended by the governor of Georgia, who stood there and practically ate the whole plate. The secret is butter, a tip I picked up in culinary school that takes this Southern staple from delicious to sublime and renders people unable to use the sense God gave a cat to stop eating. If you don’t have a specially designed plate for serving deviled eggs, with cuplike indentations to keep the eggs from rolling, simply trim off a sliver from the bottom of the cooked white before you fill the eggs with the yolk mixture. Garnish the platter with leaves of butter lettuce or herbs and nestle the filled eggs in the greenery. Very fresh eggs are difficult to peel. Buy and refrigerate eggs about seven days in advance of cooking. This allows the eggs to take in air, which helps separate the membranes from the shells.

Beets are another one of those things that sounded gross so I wouldn’t try them. By now you know the next line . . . once I tried them I really liked them. They are sweeter than most vegetables, which is fine by me. This salad can be eaten as a side dish, but with the potatoes and eggs, it’s filling enough to make a meal of it.

This traditional Mexican dessert is the most unusual cake I have ever made, but it’s excellent. The cake rises when it bakes, falls when it cools, and rises again when it absorbs all of the milk topping. Serve it in small bowls because once it is cut, the liquid comes out to form a sauce.

If your budget looks anything like mine, you’ll be eating this a lot. This is an ideal way to use up the leftovers in your fridge. Since most items need to be cooked before going in a frittata anyway, leftovers are perfect candidates. Onion, zucchini, tomato, broccoli, cheese, ham, potatoes, chicken, rice, and pasta—anything goes. Be bold and expand your horizons. Don’t be afraid to venture beyond typical omelet ingredients. And if you don’t have enough leftovers, open a can of corn and chop up some corn tortillas and toss those in.

Okay, the truth is, I’m not a big fan of lettuce, but I love steak. So this recipe was my mom’s way of getting me to eat salad. She figured if she put enough stuff on it that I liked, I wouldn’t notice the lettuce. Well, I’m not that stupid—I noticed the lettuce. But, her strategy worked, and I will admit (grudgingly) that this salad is good.

Deviled eggs were the very first thing I learned to make myself when I was five years old. My mom would boil the eggs for me, and I would peel them and cut them in half using my pumpkin-carving knife. She talks about how many pockmarked, lumpy eggs we ate, but I just remember being really proud of myself.

True zabaglione—a foamy custard of egg yolks, wine, and sugar—is often made to order in Italian restaurants. Moments after the waiter takes your order, you’ll hear the frenetic “clang-clack-clang” of the whisk hitting the copper bowl in the kitchen. Once it’s reached a billowy peak, it’s heaped into a glass quickly but not necessarily neatly (speed trumps presentation with zabaglione) and served straight up and warm. In season, you’ll often find sliced strawberries buried underneath all that delicious froth. Zabaglione Gelato captures the taste of a true zabaglione in a cool scoop of ice cream without the last-minute flurry of activity, and it’s just as good served with lots of juicy strawberries.

A classic quiche Lorraine has long been one of my favorite dishes. You can make a good crustless, meatless in the slow cooker, drawing upon that gentle heat. I like to use a smoked salt to supply the smoky flavor that would ordinarily give. Serve with a crispy green salad.

Several years ago, I took a culinary tour of Oaxaca, Mexico, run by my dear friend nancy Zaslavsky. While I knew I was in for some great food, I don’t think anything could have prepared me for the incredible marriage of flavors I found one morning in a bubbling hot cauldron of chilaquiles. I’ve used the memory of that momentous meal as inspiration for a Sriracha-tinged version that may not classify as traditional per se, but you know damn well it’s going to be delicious!.

A frittata is a thick Italian-style omelet that is chock-full of goodies; think of it as a quiche without a crust. Rather than cooking up a large version and cutting it into wedges as is often done, I prefer to make individual frittatas in a muffin pan. It cooks a bit faster, makes a great presentation, and couldn’t be easier to serve to your guests.

These fiery little bites make a perfect hors d’oeuvre for a quaint Sunday brunch, but also make a fantastic anytime snack. The Sriracha gives the yolk a gorgeous orange hue that is sure to get your guests’ attention.

Here’s all you need to know about poached eggs: Ira Gershwin said his songwriting career wouldn’t be complete until he got his beloved poached eggs into one of his songs, which he eventually did (“I’m a poached egg … without a piece of toast; Yorkshire pudding … without a beef to roast.”). I guess Ira felt like so many of us do: sometimes the best little meal is the simplest. In this case, I’ve enhanced the yum factor by topping this comfort food with Basil Lemon Drizzle. The result is a very light sauce, which the fat from the yolk takes on a trip all around your mouth. Hmm … yummmm.

Baked or shirred (pronounced “sheared”) eggs have been around forever. In this recipe, baking eggs over a little sautéed spinach with some feta cheese and a shaving of nutmeg creates a dish that looks and tastes beautiful. Just the sight of these eggs nestled in colorful ramekins is enough to bring even the most reluctant eater back to the table. To further enhance the yum factor, serve topped with Basil Lemon Drizzle (page 177).

Although the edges will puff and brown appealingly, the center of this dish may remain moist because of the amount of green chile sauce used. Green chile sauce is not salsa (although salsa could easily be substituted here). I’ve been pleased to see more companies offering jarred or canned versions that seem to be making their way out of the Southwest and into the rest of the country The amount of green chile sauce you use determines the heat level of your meal. Add another spice dimension with fresh or roasted green chiles, seeded and chopped. Although this is a vegetarian recipe that calls for meat-substitute crumbles (find these in your grocer’s freezer), you could easily add sausage, ground beef, pork, or turkey without changing anything else—likely not even the cooking time. Add chopped Canadian bacon and call it “green eggs and ham”! Consider whisking in 1/4 cup milk with the eggs for a slightly more quichelike effect.

The eggs in this recipe emerge intact, similar to poached eggs. Hearty whole-grain bread or bread with sunflower or other seeds will add texture to this dish.

My grandmother used to spend all day making her Old World cabbage rolls stuffed with ground beef, onions, rice, and raisins. We all loved them, but I don’t have the time or the patience to do it her way. Feel free to substitute chopped mushrooms in place of the ground meat for a vegetarian version. Hope you enjoy my take on this heirloom recipe!