Pastries

When you're an American in Paris, there's nothing more flattering than to have French people ask you to share your recipe for one of their national treasures. Of all the things I make for my French friends, this is the one that gets the most requests. The easiest way to describe gougères is to call them cheese puffs. Their dough, pâte àchoux, is the same one you'd use for sweet cream puffs or profiteroles, but when the pâte àchoux is destined to become gougères, you fold in a fair amount of grated cheese. In France, I use Gruyère, Comté, Emmenthal, or, just for fun and a spot of color, Mimolette, Gouda's French cousin; in America, I reach for extra-sharp cheddar, and sometimes I add a little smoked cheese to the mix. Gougères are made everywhere in France (and can be bought frozen in many stores), but their home is Burgundy, where they are the first thing you get when you sit down in almost any restaurant. In Burgundy, gougères are often served with the local aperitif, kir; chez Greenspan, where I serve them no matter what I'm pouring as a welcoming glass, my favorite sip-along is Champagne. I love the way Champagne's toastiness and gougères' egginess play together. Although you must spoon out the puffs as soon as the dough is made, the little puffs can be frozen and then baked straight from the freezer, putting them in the realm of the doable even on the spur of the moment.

Specialty foods stores, Trader Joe's, and some supermarkets carry dried blueberries.

Like thumbprint cookies, these light and lemony scones get their name from the well of preserves in the center. The secret to tender results is to work the dough as little as possible. After adding the cream, stir just until everything is incorporated. When kneading, use as few turns as possible. When shaping, pat just until you get a one-inch-thick round. Any leftovers taste great reheated the next day, wrapped in foil.

Donatella still remembers the lure of these addictive sweets. "I always got in trouble with my aunt because I would sneak into the kitchen and steal them," she says. Frying the dough in extra-virgin olive oil adds an authentic flavor. You'll need about five cups of oil for frying.

Tiny egg-shaped candies tucked into the filling are a cute addition to this delicious dessert.

This riff on a jalousie, a type of sweet whose top pastry lets you peek at the sweet filling within, features golden puff pastry filled with stripes of sweetened cream cheese and lush guava paste. Test kitchen director Ruth Cousineau conceived of this pastry as a dessert, but it would also make a decadent breakfast treat.

In this modern take on shortcake, the biscuits are filled with lemon curd, a "marmalade" made of a mixture of cooked and fresh fruit, and a spoonful of whipped cream. Keep in mind that the lemon curd needs to chill overnight.

"America needs more bran," says food editor Ian Knauer. It's hard to argue when your mouth is full of one of his crumbly, deliciously buttery bran muffins. Golden raisins add sunny bursts to this healthful snack.

These are great for sandwiches. Just split them in half, slather with some Dijon, pile on thinly sliced ham, and add a lettuce leaf.

I believe the secret to my grandmother Grace's biscuits is that she would talk to them, saying, "Rise, Mr. Biscuit, rise!" And they would. Her buttermilk biscuits were quite similar to these, made with whole milk, but sometimes she'd substitute buttermilk and use baking soda instead of baking powder. I find that biscuits made with European-style high-fat butter have less water and therefore taste and look a lot better. After you have made the dough, carefully pat it down with your hands and fold it over two or three times; it's the layers that make biscuits so flaky. Let the dough rest for half an hour or so, roll it out to the thickness you like, then cut it into circles and bake it.

The bread basket just became a little more exciting. These savory muffins are made with white cornmeal—favored over yellow by many southern cooks—and strewn with corn kernels and shreds of cheese. Albin considered putting jalapeño into the muffins but prefers the fresher, more vibrant color and flavor it offers in the butter.

For step-by-step instructions for shaping these biscuits, see Prep school.

Many teething biscuits crumble and break too easily. These are a little sturdier and safer for baby to eat.

Golden Delicious apples hold their shape even when baked at a hot temperature and wrapped in puff pastry. Their honeyed flavor adds just the right amount of sweetness to balance these slightly savory turnovers.

These muffins arelike blueberry biscuits served in a cupcake cup. They're moist, delicious, and look pretty with violet-colored glaze. Full of omega-3s and 6s, antioxidants, and vitamins, they're great in the morning with a cup of tea, juice, or smoothie.