Pastries

This is one of those recipes that has pretty much disappeared in the United States, but those who remember it rave about it. A fluden, which comes from fladni or fladen, "flat cake" in German, is just that, a flat, double-or often multilayered flaky pastry filled with poppy seeds, apples and raisins, or cheese. It was originally common to southern Germany and Alsace-Lorraine, later spreading east to Hungary, Romania, and other Eastern European countries. Often flavored with honey, it was eaten in the fall at Rosh Hashanah or Sukkot and is symbolic, like strudel, of an abundant yield. I have tasted apple two-layered fluden at Jewish bakeries and restaurants in Paris, Budapest, Tel Aviv, and Vienna, sometimes made with a butter crust, sometimes with an oil-based one. But only in Paris have I tasted the delicious fig rendition, a French fig bar, from Finkelsztajn's Bakery. (Figs, my father used to tell me, were often eaten in Germany as the new fruit on the second day of Rosh Hashanah.) This recipe is a perfect example of the constant flux of Jewish foods. Today, with the huge population of Tunisian Jews in Paris, it is no wonder that the Finkelsztajn family spike their fig filling with bou'ha, a Jewish Tunisian fig liqueur used for kiddush, the blessing over the wine on the Sabbath. You can, of course, use kirsch or any other fruit liqueur instead.

The almond paste in these muffins adds wonderful flavor and keeps them moist.

They're delicious served warm with butter, preserves or honey.

Using Stilton and sharp cheddar is intended to mimic English Huntsman cheese, in which Stilton and Double Gloucester cheeses are combined. The biscuits have a crisp crust and tender texture, despite requiring no kneading, rolling or cutting.

This confection calls for half of our recipe for sweet tartlet shells. Use the remaining half for Chocolate Raspberry Bites.

St. John's Jug Muffins "I was given the recipe for these muffins years ago, and I make a batch of the batter every winter," writes Judith Cadigan of Swarthmore, Pennsylvania."When the urge for a muffin strikes, you can bake just one instead of a whole batch, and put the remaining batter back in the refrigerator." Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 hr

Lovely with clotted cream and raspberry jam.

These delicious "puddings" are a cross between a popover and a puffy pancake.

The King Arthur Flours, its catalog (1-800-827-6836) and web site (www. kingarthurflour.com) are, in our opinion, a baker's best friend. The staff of exemplary Vermonters is unfailingly courteous and helpful should you have a baking problem or question. They appear to be serious at-home bakers too — many of the recipes on the web site and in the catalog are contributed by employees. These cheddar and pepper scones from the web site are really part angel biscuit, part scone — not the usual dry, crumbly, heavy scone, but rich and extraordinarily light. The black pepper is a powerful ingredient, by the way — timid palates should use less.

Make and shape the dough one day ahead for convenience, then just transfer from fridge to oven 20 minutes before serving.

The rolls should be served warm, so reheat them in batches as platters need replenishing.

These delicious strudels can be put together one day before baking.

Cayenne pepper in the batter gives these muffins a nice little kick.

The perfect appetizer with Champagne.

Pumpkins are grown throughout the middle states, and Missouri is the world's largest supplier of black walnuts. The pumpkin gives the finished biscuits a golden color and moist texture, and its taste is complemented by aromatic spices. To go alongside, mix butter with honey and then lace it with ground cardamom.