Ribs

Method: Direct grilling
Advance Prep: At least 1 hour for marinating the ribs Meaty beef ribs, sweet with sugar, salty with soy and oyster sauce, pungent with that trinity of Asian flavorings (ginger, garlic, and scallions) and crustily charred on the grill — if this is your idea of paradise, heaven lies in China, where individual beef short ribs are sawed crosswise into smaller pieces and flash charred on the grill. Perfect for the Type A grill jockey, who lacks the patience for low, slow traditional smoking.

Years ago, in one of his famous cooking classes, James Beard showed us this simple, "can't fail" method for roasting spareribs. He predicted that this recipe would become an all-time favorite, and he was right. These ribs have the rich flavor of pork, which you can really taste, and they are also very tender and moist. Who needs all that BBQ sauce? If you can, get baby back ribs — they're best — but any pork spareribs will do.

A slightly sweet tomato sauce blankets these tender baby back ribs.

Be sure to remove (or score) the membrane on the underside of the ribs so that the seasonings can penetrate and fully flavor the meat. Even better, ask the butcher to remove the membrane. What to drink: Kenwood Vineyards 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($17).

Joan and David Oswalt of Pasadena, California, write: "David and I both love to cook, but our approaches couldn't be more different. He'll start from scratch and spend months perfecting a particular dish, while I prefer to take a basic recipe and just add my own touches."

A long, slow braise is the secret to tender meat that falls off the bone.

Look for meaty ribs that aren't over-trimmed; the bones on top shouldn't show through. This recipe doubles or triples easily.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

For the best results, these tender ribs need to marinate for at least 12 hours, so plan ahead. Offer a selection of bottled ales and lagers.

Before using the cherry cola, pour it into a bowl and allow it to stand at room temperature until no longer effervescent, about four hours. Start with a relish platter, then serve the spareribs with the State Fair Potato Salad and corn on the cob. What to drink: Tall glasses of iced tea or frosty mugs of lager.

Baby back ribs are less fatty than spareribs, and this marinade is flavorful without being a heavy barbecue sauce.

This is a simplified version of Havana Harry's recipe; at the restaurant, they deep-fry the pork after braising it.

From Lidia's in Kansas City, an informal company dish that's sure to satisfy.

I use spareribs, but you also can use baby back ribs. Just be aware that the racks are smaller (about 1 pound each) and the ribs have less meat.

Pork ribs become satays with built-in "skewers." Great as party appetizers, the ribs can be made a day ahead, then grilled or broiled just before you serve them.

Begin preparing the ribs one day ahead so that they can marinate overnight.