Ribs

The slow-sipping, mellow character of bourbon has always suited my palate, in a glass and as an ingredient. Compared to the sophisticated, somewhat standoffish refinement of brandy, bourbon is sturdy and straightforward in the kitchen. Always searching for a way to use bourbon, I've discovered that its sweet, no-nonsense flavor is perfectly at home in this garlicky glaze where it adds depth and a sweet edge to the taste. The recipe makes enough glaze for two racks of spareribs, but it can be doubled if you need more. Serve with collard greens and baked sweet potatoes.

If you prefer to grill the ribs — which will intensify the hoisin flavor — remove them from the marinade (do not bake) and grill them over medium heat until tender and lightly charred, turning often and basting occasionally with marinade, about 25 minutes. Look for chili-garlic sauce in the Asian foods section of supermarkets.

Hoisin sauce is sold at Asian markets and in the Asian foods section of most supermarkets.

Steve Katz of Potomac, Maryland, writes: "I would like to share a recipe for the most finger-licking baby back ribs you'll ever cook on your stovetop. The secret ingredient is Lapsang souchong tea, used in the braising liquid to give the ribs a smoky flavor. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 1/4 hr

Begin preparing the ribs one day ahead so that they can marinate overnight.

Try these with mashed potatoes.

Wuxi, just two hours outside of Shanghai and often referred to as Little Shanghai, is a bustling city known for its silk. It was once called Youxi, meaning "has tin," but the tin reserves were depleted during the Han dynasty, and so Wuxi, which translates as "without tin," became its new name. These spareribs are one of the city's signature dishes.

Serve these sensational ribs with an avocado, citrus and red onion salad, some cold beer - and plenty of napkins.

These are terrific as hors d'oeuvres at a cocktail party or on their own as a main course. Have your butcher cut the ribs into two-inch lengths, or you can do it yourself at home with a cleaver.

You just cannot do this one wrong. You don't have to drain the sauerkraut. You don't even brown the ribs; they brown without your help. The recipe was handed down to Camille MacKusick by her father-in-law, from the family archives. All sorts of magical juices ooze out of everything. When the last finger is licked and the last lip smacked, everyone will weep.

(Chipotle-Marinated Grilled Pork Ribs) The Caribe Indians on the island of Hispaniola taught the Spanish how to use green wood lattices to make barbacoa — or what we now know as barbecue. A staple of the islanders' diet was the wild hog. The locals called the animals boucan, and that French word eventually came to be applied to many of the wild seafaring island men: buccaneers. Barbecue has become one of the world's favorite foods; few culinary subjects stir such rabid debate, from Texas to Memphis to South Carolina and on down to the Caribbean and South America. Barbecue as we have come to love it — using marinades and/or sauces and carefully slow-cooking — was perfected in the Caribbean. But some food scholars theorize that barbecue may have originated by accident in China many centuries ago, when a devastating fire burned down a barn, and the pig farmers, who had previously never cooked meat in a fiery fashion, smelled solace in their loss and as a consequence ate well that night. No less an authority on food than Waverly Root stated that cooking in this fashion was "so natural under primitive circumstances that it would practically invent itself everywhere, especially in societies accustomed to living outdoors most of the time." If you aren't familiar with country ribs, this recipe will introduce you to the cut, also known as split blade chops. You'll love them for all manner of dishes calling for pork ribs, barbecued or otherwise. This is a very easy recipe, though you need to allow the ribs to marinate overnight.

At Clark's Outpost Barbecue in Tioga, Texas, Warren Clark uses St. Louis-style pork ribs (slabs of ribs that have been trimmed to uniform size) and prepares them in a smoker. To make this recipe easier, we call for the more readily available baby back ribs and suggest a combination of baking and grilling for equally delicious results.

Little spareribs with "oriental" glazes were quite popular in the fifties. The sweet lacquers were composed primarily of ketchup, soy sauce and ginger, and they were nice complements to the rich meat. Forty years of progress at the supermarket have given us access to many more Asian ingredients, not to mention a taste for zestier fare. The glazes today tend to be like this one-complexly flavored and definitely more authentic.

Debra L. Warren of Lake Forest, Illinois, writes: "I have often indulged in Jay Lovell's phenomenal cuisine at his Lovell's of Lake Forest restaurant, and the ribs he prepared for an event I attended were out of this world. Could you possibly persuade the chef to share the recipe?" The espresso powder gives the sauce great depth of flavor.

From Keo's Thai Cuisine in Honolulu, this recipe calls for marinating pork ribs in coconut milk, lemongrass, ginger and soy sauce overnight. It's a delicious dish.

To create a meal around these sweet and pungent ribs, just add fresh corn on the cob and a salad of watercress, red onion and orange slices.