Scone

The small, sweet Meyer lemon, common in California backyards, has a thin, smooth skin and a juice interior and is particularly fragrant. These scones, which are lighter than most, will spread slightly during baking.

These scones are terrific with butter and honey or marmalade.

They're delicious served warm with butter, preserves or honey.

Lovely with clotted cream and raspberry jam.

The King Arthur Flours, its catalog (1-800-827-6836) and web site (www. kingarthurflour.com) are, in our opinion, a baker's best friend. The staff of exemplary Vermonters is unfailingly courteous and helpful should you have a baking problem or question. They appear to be serious at-home bakers too — many of the recipes on the web site and in the catalog are contributed by employees. These cheddar and pepper scones from the web site are really part angel biscuit, part scone — not the usual dry, crumbly, heavy scone, but rich and extraordinarily light. The black pepper is a powerful ingredient, by the way — timid palates should use less.

Make and shape the dough one day ahead for convenience, then just transfer from fridge to oven 20 minutes before serving.

Candied ginger turns this traditional cream scone into a spicy and addictive breakfast. After all these years, it's still our bestselling scone at the bakery.

Outstanding on their own, but even better with <epi:recipe link="" id="5779">Ginger Butter</epi:recipe>.

Unlike American scones, the Scottish version isn't loaded with butter. The less-rich result is an excellent foil for lots of jam, butter, and whipped cream.

Unlike most scones, these have an unusually light, cakelike texture.

Baking drop scones was always a spectator sport in my house. As soon as the smell started wafting out of the kitchen, my mum would find herself accompanied by her two daughters, perched on kitchen stools and close enough to receive a light dusting of flour. She'd pour the batter into the piping-hot frying pan, and we'd watch, transfixed, as the bubbles rose and she flipped them over till they were golden brown. They'd then be tossed into a bowl lined with a dish towel, and another towel was thrown over to keep them warm. While Mum was distracted with her griddle work, my sister and I would stealthily sneak our hands between the towels and snatch the first drop scones. Buttering them (an essential part of the process) was more difficult to do under the radar. I've often thought of the drop scone ritual over the years, but it's only now that I've asked for the recipe. Perhaps I'd filed drop scones in the childhood drawer in my brain. Now I think it's only fair to try it out myself and create more memories for my own children.

The whipping cream that is added to these slightly sweet scones gives them a delicate texture, while the lemon peel and dried apricots add terrific flavor.

A modern recipe from a modern woman: This is based on a recipe from my friend Joanne Rosen, a high-powered attorney who balances her torts and tarts, her husband and her children, with great finesse. Accompany the scones with English clotted cream (or crème fraîche) and honey.