Soufflé

(Sformati di Asparagi e Parmigiano) Sformato, which is a cross between a savory custard and a soufflé, can be made from a number of different vegetables. Asparagus is ideal and a Tuscan favorite — particularly in April and May when it is at its best. Serve these puddings as a first course or as a side dish; or accompany them with a salad for brunch or a light supper.

The mincemeat adds great flavor and texture to an ever-popular dessert.

To allow enough time for the soufflés to freeze, make them at least one day before serving.

Steamed artichokes would be a great beginning. Accompany the delicate and sophisticated goat cheese souffl with a mixed green salad, whole wheat baguette and some sliced tomatoes. Wrap up chocolate-dipped strawberries and shortbread cookies. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

These puffed little squares of pancake, based on Austria's Kaiserschmarrn, are delicious with a quick fruit sauce: Thin your favorite jam with a little water and lemon juice, then heat until hot.

For an elegant dinner, just add a salad of Bibb lettuce and Belgian endive with walnut-oil vinaigrette, and pass a basket of warm French bread. A purchased apple tart makes a lovely finale.

This terrific combination is very nice with baked ham.

The soufflés can be baked once and served immediately in their own dishes, or they can be made ahead, unmolded and baked again before serving, making them ideal for entertaining. Cucina—in London, England—sets the twice-baked soufflés on a bed of mixed greens tossed with a light vinaigrette.

You can make the soufflés 4 hours ahead (keep at room temperature). Put in a 375°F oven for 8 minutes to reheat. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 1 hr

Active time: 40 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr When Craig Claiborne accepted an invitation to a hunt breakfast in Virginia, he didn't understand that riding a horse would be part of the deal. He found the experience hair-raising but furnished us with a delightful account of that weekend — along with this fluffy rendition of the South's beloved grits. It makes a good side dish to almost any meat — especially ham, of course.