Latin American

Quesillo en Salsa Verde If you arrive for breakfast at the refined La Olla Restaurant & Bar, head to the rooftop dining area, where you can survey the city as you dine in the shade of an umbrella. No matter what you order, be sure to try the cheese with green salsa, which is served with fresh, homemade tortillas. When you're done with your feast, you can walk to the historic Santo Domingo church or the zócalo (the central square). You can use more or less sugar, depending on the acidity of the tomatillos.

The delicately flavored fruit chayote is ubiquitous in the central highlands of Mexico. It varies greatly in size, ranges in color from white to dark green, and can have prickly or smooth skin. The variety most commonly available in the United States (also known as a vegetable pear or mirliton) has smooth, pale green skin that can be eaten but is sometimes removed.

Calabaza en Tacha Señora Consuelo de Mendoza There are many regional recipes for pumpkins cooked with raw sugar, either piloncillo in the form of cones, or panela, in thick rounds — the darker the color the richer the flavor. This recipe comes from the eastern part of Michoacán, where it is eaten preferably for breakfast with a glass of cold milk.

Huevos Tirados One of Gran Café de la Parroquia's specialties is this unique omelet, made with black beans and served inside out. Make the omelets one at a time and serve them immediately (they will dry out and lose their tenderness if you try to keep them warm in the oven). If you don't have time to prepare dried beans, canned will do just fine (see the cooks' notes for black beans, this page). Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 2 3/4 hr (includes cooking dried beans)

If you can't find raw unhulled pumpkin seeds, you can substitute 6 ounces of the hulled (green) ones, but the pipián (seed-thickened sauce) will be richer. Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr

Founded in 1912 in the city's historic district, Café Tacuba is a Mexico City institution. The beautiful Talavera tiles that decorate the 19th-century colonial-style building are worth a visit in and of themselves. The extensive menu offers a little something for everyone — from huevos rancheros for breakfast to roast beef for dinner. The popular buñuelos (sweet fritters) are particularly delicious.

Tlacoyos con Queso de Cabra Traditionally these rustic cakes are made with a mashed bean filling. The goat cheese called for here adds a contemporary twist.

Mole Verde While this mole is best eaten soon after it is made, to appreciate the flavor of all the fresh greens, it can be prepared ahead up to the point of blending and adding the greens. Heat varies very much according to taste, so the number of serranos is optional. Typically this mole has a thickish texture and thickens more as it stands so it may require diluting. For all dishes of this kind, the larger and more compact the chicken the better — no fryers please. And adding extra giblets for a stronger broth is not a bad idea. This mole verde is also popularly made with espinazo, the backbone of the pig, which gives it a delicious flavor. I often make the mole with country-style spareribs cut into pieces.

(Cold Avocado Soup)

Memelas are similar to chalupas and sopes. Pinching up the edges and creating tiny bumps in the centers helps keep the filling in place, which becomes important when the memelas are large.

(Chimichurri Rojo) This vibrant sauce/marinade is a nice variation on the classic Chimichurri Verde. A sort of Argentine Worcestershire, it is slightly more herbaceous. Try marinating some chicken pieces in this sauce (in a nonreactive dish) for a few hours before cooking them. This recipe is a component of Barbecued Steak Brazilian-Style, with Garlicky Marinade and Dipping Sauce .

A nice side would be polenta or mashed potatoes.

If the four-inch tortillas used at Café Iguana in Denver, Colorado, are hard to find, the standard five- to six-inch ones also work, or they can be trimmed to the smaller size.

Onioned Tuna Soup I first tasted this soup at La Canoa, a restaurant in Guayaquil, Ecuador. They prepared the tuna in the popular style of leaving it mostly rare, then they added it to the soup right before serving. When we serve the soup at the Patria, we use all the meaty trimmings from the tuna steaks we've served as full portions.

Giving a nod to tropical fruit, this irresistible treat combines rich ice cream with a nut crust and thick fudge sauce.