Anchovy

After opening anchovies, always keep them refrigerated, or they become mushy. Use as necessary. Freshly grated cheese may be frozen until needed.

Caesar Cardini, the Tijuana restaurateur who originally served his namesake salad sans utensils, obviously knew what generations of romantics have always known — food eaten by hand is sexy. Start things off with the best caviar you can find. What to drink: A brut, or dry, Champagne or sparkling wine (the 1995 Domaine Carneros Le Rêve Blanc de Blancs is an excellent choice if you want to splurge).

At the restaurant, orzo (rice-shaped pasta) is served alongside the gravy-rich lamb.

Catalan chicory, or puntarelle, is the green of choice for this salad dressing, although Belgian endive can also he substituted. Arugula and most other full-flavored salad greens also pair well with the dressing. As regards anchovies, whole ones packed in suit are more work to cook with but taste best; bottled anchovies are a good second choice; canned (and therefore hidden from inspection) are the last decent option. Anchovy paste is made from leftovers and not really worth buying. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less but requires additional unattended time.

Broccoli is called sparaceddi in Sicilian. In this side dish, it is "drowned" in a heady mixture of olive oil, onions, anchovies, olives, red wine and cheese. While there are variations of the basic preparation throughout Italy, food historians generally think it to be of Sicilian origin.

This recipe is an accompaniment for Fried Clams .

Originally from Catalonia, a region in northern Spain that surrounds the city of Barcelona, this appetizer is now found all over the country. If not serving immediately, pass the toppings on the side so that the bread doesn't get soggy.

The following recipe was inspired by pissaladière, the Niçoise tart that features a similar topping.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Serve this with crusty bread to soak up the delicious olive oil.

This is based on a classic Italian dish, vitello tonnato, in which chilled slices of veal are topped with a puree of tuna, anchovies, capers, and lemon. Here, the veal is replaced by sliced turkey, and the sauce can be made up to a day ahead. (Buy good-quality turkey breast from the deli section of the market.)

This salsa is chock-full of sun-loving ingredients like tomatoes, olives and capers. It's a splendid accompaniment to grilled halibut steaks, pork chops, sliced eggplant or sourdough bread.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Editors note: This recipe was written in 1991, before Southeast Asian ingredients were widely available. For a more authentic take on the dish, substitute rice noodles for the capellini or thin spaghetti. (To cook: Soak the rice noodles in a large bowl of cold water for 15 minutes, then drain the noodles, and boil in salted water until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain the noodles, rinse under cold water, and drain again.) You can also replace the dried hot red pepper flakes with an equal amount of sambal oelek, and use 1 1/2 tablespoons (or more to taste) fish sauce in place of the soy sauce and anchovy paste. Also: Feel free to use flank or skirt steak in place of the shell steak, adjusting the cooking time as necessary.

Puntarelle (a Catalonian chicory) with anchovy dressing is a classic Roman dish. We have substituted celery for the puntarelle because the latter is not widely available in this country*. Active time: 45 min Start to finish: 1 3/4 hr