Asparagus

(OMELETTE AUX ASPERGES)

"One evening my husband made fantastic asparagus roasted with olive oil," says Anne Graziano of New York, New York. "It prompted me to create this salad that features the asparagus, as well as Gruy
re cheese, apple and fresh greens."

An early version of this recipe appeared in Fannie Farmer's 1896 Boston Cooking-School Cook Book. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The plump ravioli called pansoti ("little bellies"), a Ligurian specialty, are often dressed with a walnut sauce. We strayed from tradition a bit and tucked the walnuts into the filling instead. Be sure to buy pancetta that's well marbled: If it's too lean, it won't render enough fat to flavor the filling. Also, brown the onions well — the caramelization lends a depth and richness that's essential to this dish.

A soy-sake marinade is the base for a delicious reduction sauce. For convenience, begin this one day ahead and refrigerate the steak in its marinade overnight.

You can substitute wasabi powder for the wasabi paste in this recipe, but we find that the paste imparts a fresher flavor. Force the wasabi powder through a very fine sieve before using. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 25 min

Serve this intensely flavored curry — made with Thai red curry paste and coconut milk from the supermarket's Asian foods section — over steamed jasmine rice. A side salad of bean sprouts drizzled with Asian salad dressing would be a cooling accompaniment; follow it with mango slices.

Risotto, by definition, is made with rice. But other grains—like the barley in this main-course recipe—can be prepared in the same style with equally terrific results. Toasting the barley enhances its nutty flavor and keeps it from getting soft and mushy.

Round out the menu with sliced radicchio, fennel and roasted bell pepper salad; crisp flatbread; and apricot sorbet with cookies.

Though penne is Faith Heller Willinger's pasta of choice for this dish, we tried other types—such as mafalde (broad, rippled noodles similar to lasagna noodles but not quite as wide)—and found they work well, too.

Asparagus is a star of the season, as a side dish to any main course — chicken, fish, pork, beef, or lamb — or as a salad topped with a squeeze of lemon juice. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 30 min

Top-of-season asparagus is enhanced only by a little olive-oil cooking spray and salt in a simple and sensational side dish.