Cornmeal

I always choose a fresh salmon caviar over lumpfish when price is a factor.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Ginger provides a nice contrast to the mellow flavor of the cornmeal. If you like, try this with a little low-fat or nonfat milk.

To ensure a perfect blend of spices, chef Jason Girard makes his own Cajun seasoning, sold under the brand name BlueChef. We tested a variety of Cajun spice blends for this recipe and liked the McCormick and Spice Hunter brands for their balance of flavor. Active time: 20 min Start to finish: 30 min

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min For those who don't like their oysters raw, there's the classic po'-boy sandwich. New Orleans's first po'-boy makers settled on a roll that is light and mild, so that it doesn't overpower the tender oysters inside, yet is substantial enough to keep its shape when the sweet juices are released from their cornmeal crust. We discovered that a soft-crusted French, Italian, Portuguese, or Cuban loaf works well. Hot pepper sauce is the traditional condiment, but we've improvised a little, using chipotle mayonnaise to add a layer of smokiness instead of pure heat.

Active time: 1 3/4 hr Start to finish: 5 hr

Hearty breakfast fare from Rick & Ann's in Berkeley, California.

Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 6 hr

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(LOU MIAS AVEC COMPOTE DE CERISES NOIRES) Traditionally, this cake—a Christmas specialty of the town of Séguret in the Vaucluse — is made with goat's milk (look for it in the supermarket dairy case), but feel free to use cow's milk.