Potato

When put directly on the grill, potatoes will burn before they are cooked through. Parboiling potatoes and wrapping them in a foil packet with seasonings allows for perfectly grilled potatoes with lots of golden, flavorful bits. See page 619 for more spice-mix suggestions.

For crisp browned potatoes, avoid crowding the pan when sauteéing.

If you prefer a completely smooth texture, you may pass the potatoes and celery root through a food mill or ricer after they have been cooked.

Use small red or white potatoes if fingerling potatoes are unavailable.

If making this in advance, wait to add the cucumber until just before serving.

Romesco sauce, from the Catalonian region of Spain, is traditionally served with shellfish. We serve our version with roasted potatoes. It’s even better the next day, when the flavors have had a chance to blend: Refrigerate it overnight in a covered container, and bring to room temperature before serving.

Chihuahua, Cotija, and Mexican crema give the dish authentic flavor, but Monterey Jack, French feta, and sour cream are good substitutes.

This traditional Irish potato dish can be assembled up to 2 hours ahead and then browned just before serving.

To keep mashed potatoes warm for up to 2 hours, place them in a heatproof bowl over a pot filled with 3 inches of barely simmering water; cover to seal in the steam.

Halving the yams before roasting greatly reduces the cooking time and allows them to develop a nice golden crust.

Make sure to use at least a 5-quart saucepan so the oil won’t bubble over.