Potato

Root vegetables are particularly forgiving when it comes to roasting times: Slightly undercooked and they have a little extra firmness, while on the other hand it takes quite a while to overcook them to the mushiness point. So this recipe is one of my main choices when I’m preparing an entrée that’s going to require stovetop attention at the end of cooking. While I’m reducing a sauce or sautéing some veal, I don’t want to worry that I’ll need to remove the veggies from the oven at precisely 7:15. And with this recipe, I don’t.

I like to mix different types of potatoes for this, my all-time favorite roasted potato recipe. The only extra time it takes is at the market, for the cashier to price a different item. Use whichever varieties you find or prefer, and serve this as a side to nearly any meat or fish dish. And it’s just as easy for a crowd as it is for two people.

Note that the ingredients here are something of a hodgepodge: potato and sweet potato, zucchini and carrot, onion and bell pepper. That’s because this is a pretty loose recipe, and you should feel free to substitute whatever you prefer. Just be sure to cut any vegetables to roughly the same size, to ensure that they’re all fully cooked—but not overcooked—at the same time.

It’s very European to use potatoes in omelets, tarts, and frittatas—even on pizzas. The key is to use small cubes of potato, as here, or very thin slices. You don’t want to be biting into a whole mouthful of starch, and you want your potatoes to cook through in a reasonable amount of time.

I know not everyone puts zucchini on their top ten vegetable list, but when you coat zucchini chunks in a delicious Parmesan crust and broil them, trust me, most people will become zucchini lovers. You can cook sweet potatoes or carrots the same way, but zucchini cooks more quickly.

When I was a personal chef, a family for whom I worked often requested latkes, and though I hadn’t made them before, I totally fell in love with them. When I added Parmesan and basil to the mixture, they were even better. The Parmesan melts into a brittle web, like a frico, making these extra crisp and delicious.

I never turn my nose up at potato chips out of a bag—what’s not to like? But there is something incredibly satisfying about making your own, and eating them when they are hot. Considering how easy homemade potato chips are to make, there’s no reason to deny yourself this pleasure. Just make sure that the potatoes are uniformly cut into thin slices and that you salt them as soon as they come out of the fryer. Now I like these chips just plain out of the fryer, but I love them dipped into warm, tangy, gooey Blue Cheese Sauce (page 110).

Thin and crispy, shoestring potatoes are like a cross between a French fry and a potato chip. Because the potato is sliced so thin, these cook in a matter of seconds and you won’t need to soak them or cook them twice as you would regular French fries. Unless you have an incredibly sharp knife and your knife skills are borderline masterful, I suggest using a mandoline to cut the super-thin slices of potato. You can of course season these with any of the spice mixtures on pages 117 to 119, but if you really want to be decadent, try them with a drizzle of white truffle oil and some shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano—delicious!

I happen to love sweet potatoes and think they are great fried. One thing that you have to keep in mind when making this recipe is that sweet potato fries will never, ever be as crispy as fries made with regular potatoes; blanching them in oil or extending the soaking time won’t change that. Sweet potatoes are very high in sugar and this keeps them from getting crisp. Their sugar content also makes them darken faster than standard potatoes, so don’t walk away from the pot when making them! I prefer my sweet potato fries with the skin on, but if that’s not to your liking feel free to peel them. For an extra hit of flavor, try seasoning the hot fries with a few tablespoons of either the Barbecue Seasoning (page 117) or the Mediterranean Seasoning (page 118).

Rich and buttery Yukon Golds are my potato of choice when making these substantial fries, but you can definitely use Russets if you’d rather. Should you decide to season the oven fries with one of the seasoning mixes, do so before roasting. The flavor of the spices will deepen with baking and give the fries a really great texture.

These aromatic fries are often seen in bistros, where they accompany anything from steak to mussels to . . . that’s right, a burger. These are garlicky to be sure, but not overwhelmingly so because the heat of the hot fries gently cooks the chopped garlic when the two are tossed together. Flecks of parsley bring a touch of bright color and flavor to the finished dish.

It’s nice to have the option to deliver a full meal straight off of the grill, fries and all. Though not as crispy as the deep-fried variety, these hearty grilled steak fries are every bit as satisfying. It’s vital to grill the potato slices with the skin on; the skin not only provides an extra textural dimension, but also keeps the potatoes from falling apart on the grill. You can simply season these with salt and pepper or use any of the seasoning mixtures for fries (pages 117 to 119), if you so desire.

The name pretty much says it all: these are everything you could want from a French fry. They are great as is, but if you are looking for a change of pace, try tossing the fries with any of the seasoning mixtures on pages 117 to 119 or serving them with any of the condiments on pages 107 to 112.