Rice

A touch of cream Sherry amplifies the sweetness of the nuts and the squash.

A mini-processor comes in handy for making the pesto.

Hachiya persimmon puree flavors the pudding; using arborio (the starchy, short-grained risotto rice) gives it an especially tender, creamy texture.

Fluffy texture (thanks to less-starchy converted rice) and the right balance of flavors (bay, thyme, and white pepper) earn this foolproof rice its name. This recipe is an accompaniment for Gumbo Z'Herbes.

Pearl-like sushi rice cooks up slightly moist and sticky, so it forms a cake easily. Chilling the cakes before browning helps them hold their shape.

This risotto is a delicious way to add vibrant color — and a bit of Italy — to the normally muted Thanksgiving table.

This dish is a wonderful alternative to more traditional dressing. It's normal for a crust to develop on the bottom of the pot — after scooping out most of the rice, you can cook the crust a bit longer, then chip off the tasty morsels.

Here, you only boil the rice briefly before combining it with the dried fruit and cooking it without water. We adapted this rice from a Persian method that yields a buttery crust (called tah-dig) on the bottom of the pan — later the crust is served with the rice. Usually you have to dip the pot in cold water at the end of cooking to release the crust, but a happy kitchen accident occurred when we tested this recipe. Food editor Ruth Cousineau let the rice stand for almost an hour (things can get hectic when you're preparing a holiday meal), and the crust came right out without the dipping. Using a heavy pot helps keep the rice hot, too.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

The rice grains puff slightly during frying, making these crackers wonderfully light and crunchy. They are also a great alternative to croutons on soups as well as salads. This recipe is an accompaniment for Purslane, Meyer Lemon, and Pear Salad With Makrut Lime Vinaigrette and Jasmine Rice Crackers.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Start the meal with gazpacho, then offer crusty bread, marinated green and black olives, and sangria with the salad. End with raspberries atop vanilla custards.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

(TORTA DI RISO CON COMPOSTA DI CILIEGE E ALBICOCCHE) This flourless dessert is popular, especially on the Po River plain. The texture is more like that of a rice pudding than that of a cake. The compote is a refreshing partner. For a treat, uncork a semisweet Lambrusco.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.