Spring

If you use beets of different sizes, keep in mind that their cooking times may vary. Take each out of the oven as it’s ready (knife-tender).

Cooking peas only briefly—in a little bit of butter—lets them retain their flavor, color, and texture.

To peel cipollini onions, immerse in boiling water for a few minutes, then remove with a slotted spoon. Allow to cool slightly; slip off the skins.

If you like, snip the prickly points of the leaves with scissors before you cook the artichokes. The tender leaves and hearts are delicious dipped in Aïoli (page 305).

These make a wonderful addition to any summer salad or antipasto. They can also be served as a side dish for roasted or grilled lamb.

You can make this sauce with thawed frozen peas instead of fresh, in which case they don’t need to be blanched. The sauce can be made up to 1 day ahead and refrigerated in an airtight container. Reheat over medium-low heat, adding water to thin, if necessary.

Low-fat plain yogurt can be used instead.

Farro is a type of hulled wheat that has been cultivated in Italy for centuries. Look for it at gourmet shops and health-food stores, where it is also sold as spelt. Other grains, such as barley or bulgur wheat, can also be used; cook them according to package instructions.

If you would prefer a simple lemon risotto, omit the asparagus and peas.

The tapenade can also be served as a dip for crudités or a zesty sauce for grilled fish. For best results, choose olives with distinctive flavors, such as those suggested below.

You can substitute fresh or frozen peas for the fava beans. Drain the ricotta in a sieve set over a bowl for about 10 minutes to remove excess liquid. Try to find the denser buffalo ricotta for this recipe. If you use regular ricotta, the filling won’t be as thick.

The chicken and the mango dressing can be made a day ahead and refrigerated separately.