Spring

(GELATO DI FRAGOLLA)

White Chocolate Tartlets with Strawberries and Bananas These irresistible sweets feature a hazelnut crust that is lined with dark chocolate and filled with white chocolate mousse.

"Inspired by Caroline Bates's Chesapeake Bay article in the June 1998 Gourmet, I decided to spend a couple of days there with a friend from Holland," says Susan Tingle Goldthwaite of Teaneck, New Jersey. "We stayed at the Waterloo Country Inn and were pleasantly surprised to find that the inn now has a restaurant, called David's at the Waterloo, open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. The strawberry napoleon was unlike anything I have ever tasted. Wonderfully fresh strawberries were swirled in the most luscious cream concoction and nestled between two lacy almond cookies. My mouth starts watering just thinking of it again! I'd love to have the recipe." Editors' note: It turns out that chef David Wells and his wife, Lillian, have since moved their restaurant to Salisbury, Maryland, which is about 10 miles from the Waterloo Country Inn. They still offer this delicious dessert at their new place, David's (a bistro!).

Served with a salad, this dish is a complete dinner. Though the procedure for trimming artichokes may look involved, it's really quite easy.

Baking the potatoes first gives them a nice creamy texture. The potency of the mustard will diminish as the potatoes are being stirred over the burner; so if you really want to feel the burn, add an extra teaspoon or so of mustard just before serving.

Offer some homemade breadsticks with the lamb: Just cut a French bread baguette lengthwise into quarters; brush with olive oil that has been mixed with fresh herbs. Grill alongside the lamb until golden, about 2 minutes per side. Serve raspberries and cream with cookies for dessert.

This jam has a good, concentrated flavor: The only liquid comes from the rhubarb and berries interacting with sugar and lemon juice. The quick-to-prepare jam also makes a nice filling for tarts.

Carciofi alla Romana Active time: 1 hr Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr

Flambéing was all the rage in the '40s, not only for its drama but also for its utility — chafing dishes let the cook go home early and let the host or hostess show off in the dining room. Everyone's heard of cherries Jubilee, but we prefer strawberries set aflame in boozy syrup.

Asparagus or peas may be added to this recipe. Gremolata—a mixture of lemon zest, garlic, and parsley typically sprinkled over osso buco (braised veal shank)—is not traditionally used in Italian Jewish vegetable dishes, but it gives this one lightness and sparkle.

·Bear in mind you should only eat the flowering shoots of the garden pea, Pisum sativum. Don't try to cook with the flowering shoots of sweet peas from your flower garden — they're poisonous.

Crusty bread and a salad complete the meal.

The cornmeal biscuit topping adds some crunch to the winning combination of fresh strawberries and rhubarb.

Agnello di Latte Arrosto I always had mixed emotions about this dish as a little girl. Traditionally, it was served at the first meal after Lent, a joyous occasion to which everyone looked forward, including me. Still, there was an element of personal sadness: My pet was being eaten. At Busoler I spent long hours playing in the fields with lambs and young goats, and always found sentiment struggling with appetite at Easter. When the appearance of the first peas of the season coincided with Easter, they'd be shelled and added to the dish at the last moment.

Serve this rustic dish with French bread or rice to savor every last drop.

The sweet yet tangy chutney lends an exotic flavor to grilled pork — or chicken or salmon. The dark brown sugar stands up to the other intense ingredients.

Larry Forgione serves this luscious dessert at An American Place, his renowned New York City restaurant. It's a great treat when local berries are in season.