Sach Ko Ang

The distinct fragrance of sach ko ang (សាច់គោអាំង) fills the air at most street food markets and community gatherings in Cambodia. I learned to recognize the smell of these sizzling barbecued beef skewers, a traditional Khmer food, during a visit to Cambodia more than a decade ago (sach ko translates to “beef” and ang to “barbecue”). It became a mission to seek it out wherever I traveled there, sampling its many variations in a country not widely recognized for its incredible cuisine. 

At the heart of the dish is kroeung (គ្រឿង), one of five signature spice pastes used in Khmer cookery. Galangal, lemongrass, and makrut lime leaves form the aromatic flavor base of each kroeung, which branches into different styles depending on what else is added. Sach ko ang uses yellow kroeung, owed to the fresh turmeric that gives it its golden hue. 

You’ll most commonly find sach ko ang at bustling street food stalls where vendors grill them upon clay braziers (charcoal burners). Passersby can purchase a single skewer or two to be eaten on the go as an afternoon snack, but at lunchtime they’re eaten as a complete meal with a side of sweet crunchy green papaya and carrot pickle (chruak l’hong or ជ្រក់ល្ហុង), served inside a crusty baguette or with steamed rice. In addition to the kroeung marinade, the beef is seasoned with oyster sauce and palm sugar along with a multitude of added variations ranging from toasted ground star anise, MSG, chili paste, or fish sauce. My version is inspired by a recipe taught to me by Pek Sarann, a Khmer cook from Phnom Penh and owner of Bok it Ihe (បុកឥតល្ហែ) restaurant in Koh Kong, who learned the recipe from her mother. While other Khmer cooks prefer a longer marinade for more developed flavors, Sarann cooks her skewers after a short 30-minute marinade, amplifying the freshness of the ingredients in the kroeung. 

When preparing kroeung, it’s best to wear gloves, as fresh turmeric stains fingers. The quick-pickle is ready to eat after just 30 minutes. To make a more substantial meal, add steamed rice or serve inside a buttered baguette with the pickle, and drink with an ice-cold beer, just as the Khmer people do. —Lara Lee