Summer Squash Pasta With Just Enough Anchovies

Compared with its compatriots (looking at you, tomatoes and stone fruit!), a bunch of squash at the bottom of the CSA box doesn’t elicit much celebration. But summer for me means finding new ways to cook with this underrated veggie. My favorite? This simple, silky sauce, made with zucchini, lots of shallots, and a tangle of anchovies. With all of the ingredients casually slung in a pot and cooked down until tender, the effort-to-reward ratio on this sauce is off the charts. Toasted buttered hazelnuts are the perfect punctuation, offering texture and nuttiness. Creamy without a drop of cream and packing nearly two pounds of zucchini (potassium! vitamin C!), this pasta is excellent alongside a few glasses of cold white wine. Seek out bright yellow zucchini such as Gold Bar for the sunniest color. —Shilpa Uskokovic