
Sharp and sweet, rhubarb and beets were made for one another, and this soup is a fitting celebration of their union. I had intended to make a beet and apple soup (hitherto a favorite) one day, only to find I had no apples, so substituted the rhubarb instead, and have never looked back. (Though if you want to make the apple variant, simply use 2 Granny Smiths in its place. Or, for a Christ-massy version, use 1¾ cups of cranberries and an extra 4 ounces of beets.) The rhubarb undercuts what can, for me, be the cloying candied intensity of beets. Deep in color and sprightly in taste, this is a soup to have in a pitcher in the fridge for a tangy bowl of instant comfort whenever needed.
You can eat it just as it is, or swirl over a horseradish cream made by mixing ¾ cup of regular dairy or oat-milk cream with a pinch of salt, 3 tablespoons of freshly grated horseradish, ¼ teaspoon of apple cider vinegar and ½ teaspoon of Dijon mustard. But I have grown to love it particularly with a green tahini sauce—either with cilantro or ramps. Or you can simply squiggle over some cream.

