Fried Chicken Sandwich With Spicy Mayonnaise

“Fried,” “Chicken” and “Sandwich”: three alluring enough words on their own; together, they promise pure, unbridled pleasure. And, frankly, that’s the only kind of pleasure I’m interested in. And it’s simple enough to do. I concede the idea of deep-frying can make one hesitate, but frying one single chicken thigh is a very much less hot and bothersome activity than you might imagine. I use my 9-inch heavy-based pan for this but do use a wok if you prefer.

It’s hardly a takeaway-at-home impulse dinner, however, as the chicken ideally needs to marinate for quite a few hours (although, in extremis, you can leave it out on the kitchen countertop for 20 minutes instead). But I like working my way up to this very special solo supper, and I plan it lovingly, making sure I get the chicken thigh in its sharp, spicy marinade a good day before I’m going to be eating it. And while I have stipulated in the ingredients list what else you’ll need for your sandwich, I am merely reporting on how I like to eat it. You may choose to ignore my suggestions entirely: there is no more personal food than a sandwich and I expect you to have your own strongly held views as to what to put in yours.

Chinese Chili Crisp oil is a staple in my kitchen but really, any chili component works along with the mayonnaise; if using a sweeter sauce though omit the honey. For me, shredded iceberg is pretty well non-negotiable, but I’ll use romaine uncomplainingly in its stead. And while I used to consider pickles essential, I increasingly want some sour-sharp kimchi in their place. If I don’t have any, then I swap in some coarsely grated carrot and a fierily generous splodge of the Fermented Hot Sauce, which is just perfect with the crisp-coated, juicy-fleshed chicken.