Green Garlic and Leek Matzo Brei With Smoked Salmon and Horseradish Cream

There are two schools of thought when it comes to matzo brei: the softer scrambled eggs style and the firmer frittata style. My family prefers the latter, and we usually think of matzo brei as a Passover version of French toast, eating it with maple syrup and a sprinkle of salt for breakfast or a light supper. But sometimes I turn this humble dish into an elegant savory main course that incorporates the delicate young green garlic and leeks sold at farmers’ markets this time of year. Topped with silky smoked salmon and horseradish-spiked crème fraîche, this matzo brei is too beautiful to serve only during the eight days of Passover.

Green or spring garlic is the mild, immature garlic plant harvested before the familiar bulb forms and whose tops are tender enough to eat, as are those of young leeks no thicker than a green onion. You can use both or just one here, or use more common, mature leeks and garlic.