Lemon Chiffon Cake

Lighter-than-air lemon chiffon cake gets its lofty stature from whipped egg whites, cream of tartar, and a bit of baking magic. Lemon zest and juice provide tangy lemon flavor, though lime or grapefruit zest and juice work, too, if you’d like to veer off course.

The key to any chiffon cake recipe is the fold: Whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form—an electric mixer on low speed will give you the most control, or use a stand mixer with the whisk attachment—then combine them with the egg yolk mixture. Use a light hand and work quickly in batches to fold one into the other before the egg white meringue deflates. This is one of the times when you actually really do need to use the cake pan the recipe calls for. The straight sides of an ungreased tube pan help the tender crumb reach its loftiest potential; swap in a nonstick Bundt pan, and you’ll be left with nothing but dense, flat disappointment.

It’s similarly crucial to set the cake upside down to cool as soon as you take it out of the oven so it maintains its shape as it comes to room temperature. If your pan has “feet,” you just need to flip it; if not, place an empty bottle in the hole of the pan and invert, then let the bottle hold the pan aloft. When cool, run a sharp knife along the sides of the pan to loosen the cake, then transfer the lemon chiffon cake to a plate and dust with a generous amount of powdered sugar, or garnish the top of the cake with whipped cream or lemon curd and a pile of berries.