Name: Thai Muslim–Style Grilled Chicken
Cook time: 2 hours
Total time: 3 hours, plus at least 12 hours for marinating
Yield: 4 servings
Ingredients: 1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken; 3 tsp. white or black peppercorns; 6 garlic cloves; 2 cilantro roots, chopped, or 2 Tbsp. (heaping) finely chopped cilantro stems; 3 Tbsp. (packed) light brown sugar; 2 Tbsp. fish sauce; 4 tsp. ground turmeric; 1 Tbsp. kosher salt; 2 tsp. ground coriander; 2 tsp. ground cumin; 1 tsp. ground cardamom; ½ cup (packed) chopped fresh ripe pineapple; ¼ cup distilled white vinegar or apple cider vinegar; 6 large garlic cloves, finely chopped; 3 red jalapeños or serrano chiles, seeds removed, finely chopped; ¼ cup granulated sugar; 1 tsp. kosher salt; ½ tsp. freshly ground white pepper; 1 tsp. (lightly packed) saffron threads or 1 tsp. ground turmeric; 2 tsp. granulated sugar; 1 tsp. kosher salt; ⅓ cup virgin coconut oil; Vegetable oil (for grill; optional); 1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped cilantro; Cooked jasmine rice, coconut rice, or sticky rice (for serving); A spice mill or a mortar and pestle

Photo of Leela Punyaratabandhu's Jirapan's Chicken with Thai fresh herbs and rice on the side.

Photo by Joseph De Leo, Food Styling by Micah Marie Morton

This recipe is inspired by the grilled chicken served at Jeerapan, a 77-year-old restaurant in Bangkok, Thailand. Their version is baked in a tandoor-like oven, but I've adapted it for a grill or oven. The two-stage cooking method is essential: The initial roasting at moderate heat partially cooks the meat while dehydrating the skin, getting it ready to crisp up later on and allowing all the scattered bits of fresh aromatics and dried spices in the marinade to adhere. The final stage of cooking is hot and fast, using saffron-infused coconut oil as a basting liquid. The end result is a juicy, fragrant, and intensely flavorful bird, tinted canary gold—its skin smoky, charred, and crisp. The pineapple-chile dipping sauce lends its sweet tang and a mild kick of heat to round out the meal.

There are myriad styles of grilled chicken in Thailand; what makes this one stand out is that its seasoning ingredients include both common fresh Thai herbs as well as dried spices that are more frequently seen in Middle Eastern and South Asian cuisines, such as cardamom, cinnamon, allspice, and saffron. You can eat this chicken with coconut rice, Thai Muslim–style, or you can eat it with sticky rice, which is the most common companion to grilled chicken in Thailand.