
I’ve been cooking—and eating—French fries since I was a baby and pretty much enjoying every bite. With that pedigree, I feel I can proclaim with 100 percent certainty that following this process makes a truly great fry! I urge you to try frying them in the beef or duck fat I suggest (see more about them in the Note at the end of the recipe). Don’t let the type of fat put you off—particularly because the fat pretty much makes the fry. I start the spuds in water, which preps them for the subsequent fryings. The double frying and the chilling create a light brown canvas of crevasses and fissures that, after two plunges into hot fat, produce irresistibly crunchy, crackly french fries.
If you can get beef or duck fat, you won’t be sorry. The flavor either one imparts is impossible to match. You’ll probably have to work with a butcher or beg a local restaurant chef to help you secure your gallon of fat, but in the end you’ll be happy. On the other hand, these fries are damn good when fried in a vegetable oil with a high smoking point, such as canola, soy, or sunflower oil.


