Calvados

This ice cream is served with a hazelnut torte at Die Quadriga in the Hotel Brandenburger Hof.

The port cities of Normandy-Caen among them-offer almost endless choices for fall menu planning. For this satisfying stew, the natural bounty of Normandy's waters, the rich cream of its pasturelands and its distinctive apple-based brandy called Calvados are combined with savory root vegetables from the local harvest. Start out with your favorite pâté and some cornichons, and serve a crusty baguette with the stew. Pour a white Burgundy or hard cider.

This quick dessert is like a crustless apple tart. It's a terrific way to use the fruit of the season and a perfect finish for the pork chops

Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 1 hr (includes cooling)

Elegant batons of carrots, parsnips, and rutabagas make a pretty presentation. Serve this alongside roast pork, beef, or lamb. Market tip: If carrots still have the tops attached, make sure they are bright green and fresh-looking. Choose cream-colored parsnips that taper gently; this makes it easier to cut uniform pieces. Medium-size rutabagas (about the size of a yellow onion) are best; larger ones can be woody.

This recipe yields more than is needed for the Parisienne apples. Use the remainder on pancakes or waffles, or as a flavorful boost for hot cereal. Active time: 10 min Start to finish: 10 min

Brining the pork makes it especially juicy.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 45 min

Roast goose with apples, a specialty of Alsace, has become a classic Hanukkah dish in Paris. This recipe comes from Didier Lewkowicz, a butcher in the old Jewish quarter of Paris. Serve a French red Bordeaux with the goose.

Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 1 1/4 hr

Early French gardeners developed the espalier method of growing fruit trees-the trees are trained to grow flat against a wall or trellis-so they could take full advantage of the sun and use small plots of land efficiently. October finds markets full of newly harvested crisp apples that add wonderful flavor to this traditional French tart.

(Gâteau de Pommes Grand-Mère) Sautéing the apples in butter (along with a splash of Calvados) before adding them to the batter lends an extra dimension of richness to this very simple apple cake. Enjoy a wedge with a cup of coffee in the morning or as a welcome afternoon snack with tea.