Condiment

Pacific Northwesterners love their blueberries. From July to September, cartons of fresh blueberries fill the grocery stores and farmer’s markets. The most prized is the wild Mt. Rainier blueberry, which grows in the foothills of the Cascade Mountains in Washington State, but farms all over Oregon and Washington grow the bright blue fruit. Use fresh blueberries to make the sauce only if they’re in season; otherwise, use frozen wild blueberries. The sweetness of the blueberries is a stark contrast to savory flavors, and when drizzled over meat or fish, the sauce takes on another level of richness.

This was the first recipe we came up with for Beecher’s. It was created specifically for the mac and cheese, but then we realized we could use the sauce in all sorts of dishes: Mix it with a little white wine for a rich fondue sauce, spoon it over poached eggs (see Poached Eggs with Cheese Sauce, page 214), or pour it over steamed broccoli for an easy veggie dish. You can experiment with other leftover cheeses to create new flavor combinations.

The secret ingredient of this tangy, spicy dressing is fish sauce, or “nam pla.” Made from small, dried fish, nam pla is a staple in Southeast Asian cooking; its strong, distinctive flavor is mellowed by the lime. Adjust the level of spiciness by adding jalapeños or leaving them out entirely.

This is a great all-purpose vinaigrette that can dress a salad as easily as it can be poured on grilled vegetables or served as a dipping sauce for bread.

GOOD TO KNOW To impart more flavor and moistness, cook the salmon fillets with the skin intact. The skin will cook to a delightful crisp, but you can remove it before serving if desired.

A basic fresh pickling method is to make a brine, bring it to a boil, and cook cut-up vegetables in the simmering liquid until they are just tender, but still a bit crisp. Many vegetables are good for pickling; prepare as many different kinds as you like, but cook them separately.

David makes these pickles to be enjoyed right after seasoning, while they are still vibrant and crunchy.

In the south of France, an aïoli is both the garlic and olive oil mayonnaise sauce itself and the dish for which it is the raison d’être, which can be either grand or petit. Le grand aïoli is a festive Provençal free-for-all meal in itself, typically consisting of the sauce in its mortar surrounded by platters of seasonal vegetables (cauliflower, carrots, beets, green beans, artichokes, potatoes) all freshly boiled; poached salt cod and stewed octopus; and tomatoes and hard-boiled eggs. Summer is the time for an aïoli extravaganza; with crisp cold rosé wine, it is the perfect dish on a hot evening. Garlic is juicy and firm and in season, and the summer vegetables that are so good with the garlic mayonnaise are plentiful. The ingredients listed below are suggestions; add whatever vegetables and fish you like.

Homemade mayonnaise is so superior to store-bought that it is well worth the effort. Some people are intimidated by the thought of making a mayonnaise, but it is a skill easily mastered. A mayonnaise made with garlic, or aïoli, is one of my favorite sauces for almost everything. In the fall and winter months, garlic cloves may have a green sprouting germ in the center. Cut each clove in half lengthwise before pounding, and remove the bitter germ.

Pesto is a traditional pasta sauce, but it is also a delicious sauce for grilled vegetables and chicken, salads, and pizzas, and a perfect final flavoring to a bean and vegetable soup.

In Mexico, salsas are typically made with ingredients roasted on a clay comal, or griddle. A cast-iron skillet is a good substitute. When whole chile peppers, unpeeled garlic cloves, tomatoes, and tomatillos are dry-roasted, they brown as they cook and develop the toasty overtones that create deep flavors in the salsa. Another traditional tool is the molcajete y tejolote, a rough stone mortar and pestle used to mash and blend the salsa.

The simplest guacamole is made with avocado, onions, jalapeño, lime, salt, and cilantro. The amounts of the ingredients can vary; guacamole is very forgiving. The important things are to taste for a balance of salt, heat, and acid and to make the guacamole taste the way you like it.

A simple uncooked sauce of fresh herbs brings aliveness to the table. Salsa verde (green sauce) is a versatile sauce of parsley and olive oil flavored with shallots, capers, and lemon zest. The basic recipe can be enhanced with additional ingredients to make it more pungent and complex. It will brighten and complement many dishes, especially grilled vegetables, meat, and fish.

This is only one example of the many summer fruit compotes that turn combinations of fruit into delectable desserts. All the fruits of summer—plums, peaches, apricots, nectarines, cherries, figs—can be cut up and soaked together in their own juices with a little sugar and lemon juice. Summer fruit compotes are delicious by themselves; on pancakes or waffles; with almond cake or angel food cake or a plate of cookies; or with ice cream, whipped cream, or sherbet.