Condiment

In the South, you usually find pepper sauce in the middle of the dinner table beside the salt and black pepper. Don’t confuse this pepper sauce with a Tabasco-type sauce; this simple seasoning is made from vinegar and whole peppers. Over time the peppers will flavor the vinegar, and the longer it sits, the better it gets! Pepper sauce is used as a seasoning and an ornamental decoration. A few dashes will heighten the flavor of black-eyed peas, all types of greens, barbecue, and many other traditional Southern dishes. Pack your pepper sauce in glass containers of any size and shape. The aesthetic value of the glass combined with the color and variety of peppers creates a beautiful conversation piece.

Few culinary terms are as open to interpretation as “chili sauce,” and when a recipe calls for chili sauce, there is sometimes a huge lot of confusion about what should be added. Chili sauces can be used as a condiment or an ingredient. They can be hot or mild relative to how much chili pepper goes into the sauce. Chili sauce can be categorized as a hot sauce or a tomato-based condiment similar to ketchup or cocktail sauce. Do you see the confusion? The best way to describe Big Mama’s Chili Sauce is as a cross between a tomato-based condiment and a sweet chow-chow. This chunky sauce has a good mix of sweet and spicy, with the heat determined by the type of pepper used. This particular sauce has always been used as a condiment or topping, but I have found it works well as a finishing sauce for ribs, too. Try it in the morning on scrambled eggs or in a breakfast burrito. Use it instead of relish on hot dogs. Add a dose to beans or peas to heighten their flavor.

On a recent trip to one of my favorite vineyards in California, Seghesio, I stopped by a restaurant in downtown Healdsburg. The sign promising sushi (yes, pitmasters do occasionally enjoy a plate of sushi) drew me to a seat overlooking a fresh seafood bar, where in addition to sushi a wide variety of fried and grilled appetizers was available. The food was great, but what caught my eye and taste buds was the variety of sauces that accompanied their fresh fare, especially their caramelized soy sauce. This deep black sauce had the consistency of molasses but with a rich chocolate flavor. Surprisingly, it worked very well with the seafood. In my mind I was envisioning chocolate shrimp, chocolate chicken, and chocolate ribs! Well, maybe I got a little carried away, but it did inspire this glaze.

I think it’s safe to assume that the history of barbecue in North Carolina traveled from east to west. If you have any doubt, you only need to look at the ingredient difference between the two styles of sauce. In the East a barbecue sauce can be as simple as vinegar, salt, and pepper. Western North Carolina compounds the East’s flavors with a variety of extra ingredients including ketchup, a generous amount of brown sugar, and sometimes Worcestershire sauce (See page 224). Eastern Carolina barbecue has generally consisted of cooking whole hogs, but it is the vinegar sauce that adds an element of uniqueness to its barbecue. The sauce will add an increased level of moisture to the chopped meat while enhancing its flavor with a distinct cider-vinegar tang.

To barbecue aficionados it is clear that Big Bob Gibson was directly influenced by the conventions of Eastern North Carolina–style barbecue. The connection can’t be made through the family tree, but the ingredients in his vinegar-based sop make it obvious. The only difference is that Big Bob didn’t share North Carolinians’ affinity for apple cider vinegar, preferring distilled colored vinegar instead. This straightforward concoction has been mopped onto the restaurant’s pork shoulders since the very beginning. I am pleased to reveal that this four-ingredient “secret sauce” is Big Bob’s original recipe; maybe now the sauce bottles on the restaurant tables will stop disappearing.

Canned chipotle peppers add smoky, spicy heat.

Mild and mellow garlic flavor.

The bright flavor of ginger, especially good with seafood.

Fresh herb flavor any time of year. Delicious with just one herb, or mix and match.

An Italian classic, fragrant with lemon.

This is the hot sauce we make regularly at the restaurant to ladle over burritos, enchiladas, tostadas, casseroles, and stuffed vegetables. Cooking the onions and peppers quickly on high heat brings out flavor with less simmering time.

Flavored butter can make plain food instantly interesting by enlivening it with the flavors of fresh herbs, ginger, citrus, chiles, or roasted garlic. Keep some in the freezer to use in cooking or at the table. Give an instant flavor boost to plain steamed vegetables, broiled or grilled fish, eggs, grains, pasta, corn on the cob, or mashed potatoes. Slather it on fresh bread, rolls, or biscuits.

Roasting mellows and sweetens the pungent flavor of raw garlic. Roasted garlic is useful for enhancing salad dressings, sauces, soups, and stews, and it can be used as a spread on bread all by itself.

Spruce up your favorite homemade or store-bought salsa.

This colorful chutney, better than any you can buy in a jar, adds a sweet-and-sour note to curries, baked tofu, or any spicy dish and can even put a new spin on that same old peanut butter sandwich.

Easy, no-fuss sauce for your favorite barbecue.

Crimson red with a bright fruit flavor, this chutney is a great condiment for all curries.

Take a few minutes to turn mayonnaise into something special. Aioli is a flavorful topping for steamed vegetables of all types, potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, fish, and shrimp, as well as a dressing for a simple salad, a dip for artichokes—even a sandwich spread.