Pancake

All but the most experienced of crêpe chefs will admit that the first crêpe in a batch is often not of the best quality. The level of heat under the skillet needs to be fine-tuned as you go. With that in mind, our recipe makes enough batter for 2 crêpes, even though you'll only need 1 for this hors d'oeuvre. If the first crêpe comes out well, freeze the extra, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, to use another evening. Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 hr

What to drink: Georg Breuer 1999 Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Rüdesheim Berg Rottland.

The following recipe is made with an electric blender, because it is so quick. If you do not have one, gradually blend the egg yolks into the flour with a wooded spoon, beat in the liquids by droplets, then strain through a fine sieve. Crêpe batter should be made at least 2 hours before it is to be used; this allows the flour particles to expand in the liquid and insures a tender, light, thin crêpe. The first crêpe is a trial one to test out the consistency of your batter, the exact amount you need for the pan, and the heat.

This version of blini—a tribute to the Russian communities throughout the New York metropolitan area—is fast because it does not require yeast. If buckwheat flour is unavailable, whole-wheat flour makes a good substitute.

You can use these pancakes for the caviar pancakes and save the remaining batter for breakfast. Active time: 15 min Start to finish: 15 min

Ever since R.C Van Dyne from Wilmington, NC tasted farinata in Alessandria, Italy, he has been wanting to make it. We obtained this recipe from Rose Pistola restaurant in San Francisco, where they serve their own farinata. Farinata is a thin, crisp, pizzalike pancake made from chick-pea flour. When we called Rose Pistola, we were thrilled to learn that the recipe had already been reworked for the home cook by Peggy Knickerbocker, coauthor with chef Reed Hearon of The Rose Pistola Cookbook: 140 Recipes from San Francisco's Favorite North Beach Restaurant (out October, 1999 from Broadway Books). The following recipe makes three farinata, but they must be baked one at a time. We suggest opening a bottle of wine, hanging out in the kitchen with friends, and eating the farinata as they come out of the oven. For best results, use a 10-inch seasoned cast-iron round griddle, about 3/8-inch deep, that can hold about 1 cup batter. Farinata can be made in a regular cast-iron skillet, but it won't be quite as crisp or easy to remove.

Crepas de Cajeta con Nuez Cajeta (or dulce de leche, as it is known in other Latin American countries) is a thick caramel sauce traditionally made with goat's milk, though cow's milk is also commonly used. If you can't find cajeta, you can substitute dulce de leche, now available in many supermarkets (look for it next to the ice cream sauces). Cajeta is sold at Mexican and Latin American markets.

Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 30 min

This classic Swiss potato pancake and the Green Bean and Red Onion Salad are great together. Serve dry Champagne throughout the meal.

An elegant appetizer from Fleur de Lys in San Francisco.

These berry-studded flapjacks are terrific topped with sweet butter and maple syrup and accompanied by bacon, ham or sausages. Big fans of molasses will want to pour a little extra over the pancakes.

(Spicy Chicken Crêpes)

Even though they are most often associated with the Jewish holiday of Hanukkah, potato pancakes have a year-round appeal. Here they are given a Middle Eastern twist with the addition of flour made from chick-peas - the dominant flavor in falafel - as well as chilis, herbs and spices. Pour a dry white wine. For dessert, present fruit and some halvah. Chick-pea flour is available at Middle Eastern and Indian markets.

During a summer trip to Santa Fe, Joan Coulliette of Sandy, Utah, had a wonderful baked apple pancake for breakfast at Atalaya restaurant. The restaurant has closed, but we were able to get the recipe for the pancakes.

These puffed little squares of pancake, based on Austria's Kaiserschmarrn, are delicious with a quick fruit sauce: Thin your favorite jam with a little water and lemon juice, then heat until hot.