Italian

Delfina is one of my favorite restaurants in San Francisco, and it happens to be just two doors down from the Market! Although much of their menu changes daily, this spaghetti is always on offer, and I think it’s one of the best things they make. It’s a great example of how a few high-quality ingredients (most of them pantry items) can come together for a simple but nourishing meal. Chef-owner Craig Stoll was generous enough to share his recipe. Craig employs the classical Italian technique of par-cooking the pasta and then finishing the cooking with the sauce. This not only thickens the sauce but also lets the sauce cook into the pasta. He says, “The result should be juicy and shiny and full of flavor, but with no residual sauce. All of the sauce should be contained within the body of the spaghetti. The last bite of pasta should bring the last bit of sauce with it.”

Bagna cauda (“warm bath”) is a traditional Tuscan condiment for dressing veggies and greens. It is meant to showcase the two simple ingredients of anchovy and garlic, which are brought together with oil and butter and tempered by lemon juice. Raw or lightly steamed vegetables are the simplest pairing, but you can also use it to dress fish, especially tuna or swordfish, or dress beans. With a little extra lemon juice, it makes a fantastic salad dressing for sturdy greens.

An Italian semifreddo is a frozen mousse, lighter than ice cream and made without churning. You can vary it according to season, incorporating flavors from raspberry to pear to chestnut. We like to make it with chopped toasted almonds and Marshall’s Farm wildflower honey, collected from hives in one of our vineyards. The result tastes like frozen nougat. Serve with a thin, crisp cookie.

Who better to provide a cioppino recipe than Jesse Llapitan, the executive chef of San Francisco’s Palace Hotel, the city’s grande dame? Every San Franciscan puts his or her own stamp on this rustic fisherman’s stew, but the Dungeness crab is nonnegotiable. Chef Llapitan attended the 2005 Workshop.

If you like risotto, you will love this creamy, heart-healthy variation made with barley. Pearled barley is not a whole grain, because it has had much of the bran removed, but it has a lot more fiber than white rice so it’s a healthful choice. Chef David Koelling, a 1990 Workshop participant, adds mushrooms to his barley risotto to make the dish more substantial. Serve it in small portions as a first course or side dish—it would complement roast chicken—or in larger portions as a main course, with a salad.

This recipe makes one large lasagna, but you can easily make two smaller versions in eight-inch baking dishes. Enjoy one for dinner tonight, and freeze the other for later. Or add sausage to one (see variation below) and keep the other meat-free.

The combination of raisins, pine nuts, and chard is typical in Sicilian cooking; here it is used in a robust pasta dish, along with crumbled sweet Italian sausage. Running a paring knife down the center of the sausage is the easiest way to remove the casing.

Similar to other Tuscan soups, like ribollita and pappa al pomodoro, this recipe makes good use of day-old bread. During cooking, the pieces absorb the broth and help thicken the soup. Shave or grate parmesan cheese over each serving, if desired.

THIS IS OUR BASIC RED SAUCE and a recipe you will turn to again and again. It’s one of the most versatile marinara sauces around, topping pasta, homemade pizza, or fresh seafood.

A BEAUTIFUL BOWL OF FRESHLY STEAMED MUSSELS is even better with marinara sauce, with the tomato playing off the tender, salty shellfish. Serve this dish as a starter, or ladle the mussels over spaghetti for a hearty pasta dish. Be sure to serve a loaf of warm, crusty bread alongside to soak up the juices.

CIOPPINO, THE CLASSIC ITALIAN-AMERICAN FISH STEW for which San Francisco is famous, takes on a new life in the Northwest, with fennel and a hint of anchovy to boost the flavor. The mashed avocado is used as a thickener and adds a richness to the dish, but it’s optional. We use a variety of seafood, but feel free to use whatever is fresh in your fish market. We like to use true cod, also known as Pacific cod, because of its flaky texture and mild flavor. (Pacific cod is preferable to Atlantic cod, an overfished species.) True cod is often available frozen. If you find it fresh ask your fishmonger to bone it for you.

RISOTTO IS A SIMPLE, ELEGANT DISH that acts as a vehicle for a variety of flavors. Adding lemon to risotto is common in Italy, where the subtly flavored dish is often served as an appetizer. I like it as a side to Butter-Rubbed Salmon (page 103) with Blueberry Sauce (page 104) or simply enjoy it as a vegetarian main course, perhaps accompanied by blanched asparagus.

SMART SUBSTITUTION Using part-skim cheeses—such as the ricotta and mozzarella in this recipe—in place of full-fat versions is one easy way to make a favorite pasta dish healthier. And before they are filled and rolled, the eggplant slices are baked, without any oil, instead of being breaded and fried.

SMART SUBSTITUTION To make this popular Italian dessert lighter, use reduced-fat cream cheese and skim milk in place of the traditional heavy cream. Thanks to the semisweet chocolate, it still tastes rich.

WHY IT’S LIGHT This Italian restaurant standby turns virtuous with baked (instead of fried) eggplant and a healthier béchamel made from skim milk, which is then combined with some marinara sauce. Using less cheese also helps; here, the two cheeses are sprinkled only on top, rather than in each layer.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Only one side of the chicken is breaded here, and an egg white instead of a whole egg is used to bind the whole-wheat crumbs to the meat. Serve the chicken with a side of whole-wheat spaghetti tossed with olive oil and fresh herbs, or a simple salad.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Since they contain no butter or oil, these crunchy, nut-studded treats are significantly lower in fat than other cookies. Whole-wheat flour gives the wholesome biscotti extra fiber.

WHY IT’S LIGHT Using light mayonnaise (and a bit of water) in the dressing considerably reduces the calories and fat. Lime juice and chili powder contribute unexpected flavor notes while still keeping the whole thing light.

This dish of Lidia’s is what I make for supper when I return home tired and hungry after traveling. I like it very plain, with lots of parsley, but you could spice it up by adding a pinch of dried chile flakes or chopped anchovy, and serving it with grated cheese.