Pastries

You can make puff pastry from scratch by following the recipes on page 653 or 654.

Don’t be discouraged if your napoleon doesn’t cut neatly into serving pieces; even if it’s slightly flattened, each bite will still be delicious. To pipe the white chocolate, you’ll need a piping cone made from parchment paper.

Once the palmiers are in the oven, watch them closely, as they may go from a perfect dark golden brown to burned in seconds.

The lined baking sheets can be marked with flour-dipped cookie cutters to help guide you in piping the dough into uniform shapes. (See how-to on page 652.)

These turnovers are a variation on the classic pain au chocolat. For maximum flavor, look for the highest-quality chocolate possible, such as Callebaut, Valrhona, or Scharffen Berger.

You can make coffee icing by whisking together 2 cups sifted confectioners’ sugar, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and 3 tablespoons brewed coffee. Make the icing just before serving.

Profiteroles, like éclairs, are made from pâte à choux, a delicate, airy pastry that is surprisingly easy to make.

If at any point the dough gets too soft to work with or begins to shrink, refrigerate for 15 minutes before proceeding.

We used morel mushrooms, a spring variety known for its nutty flavor and pitted flesh, but any wild mushrooms, an assortment, or even cultivated mushrooms will also make a nice sauce. You can prepare the popover batter in advance, and refrigerate it for up to one day. Let it stand at room temperature for 20 minutes before baking. The sauce can also be made one day ahead. Let it cool completely, then refrigerate. Reheat over medium-low heat, adding heavy cream to thin, if necessary. If you have leftovers, keep them in an airtight container for up to one day.

Panettone is a traditional, rich Christmas bread originating in Milan. There are many folktales about its origins, the most popular being that it was created a few hundred years ago by a humble baker named Tony to woo his beloved, the daughter of a rich merchant. More importantly, he had to win over the father to the idea of his daughter marrying a baker, so he pulled out all the stops, filling his bread with the baker’s equivalent of the gifts of the wise men: butter, brandied dried and candied fruits, nuts, and sugar. The merchant was so impressed that he not only gave his daughter in marriage, but also set Tony up with his own bakery in Milan with the promise that he would continue to make his bread, pane Tony. For many years the standard panettone found in most bakeries and cookbooks has been one made with commercial yeast, a good but not great rendition. The best and most traditional versions are made by wild-yeast fermentation, augmented by a small amount of commercial yeast. Recently, one of the largest panettone bakeries in Italy changed its formula from commercial yeast to wild yeast, returning to the more traditional method that had all but been abandoned. The bakers discovered that not only does the bread have a longer shelf life due to the increased acidity, but it also outsold the commercial-yeast version. This added up to a huge increase in profits and, more importantly, to happier customers. The following formula will produce a long-keeping loaf that could easily become a perennial favorite at holiday time. It is more time-consuming to produce, but that’s the price of world-class quality. You can also make a perfectly good panettone by following the Stollen formula on page 252, shaping it in the round panettone style.

My students often ask me to teach them how to make a cinnamon bun as good as the ones they get at the mall from Cinnabon and other franchise shops. For my money, this version makes a cinnamon bun that outperforms all the malls. But those of us who grew up in eastern Pennsylvania have a soft spot in our hearts for sticky buns, such as the ones originating from the Pennsylvania Dutch countryside. Frankly, everyone in the United States seems to have a favorite regional version, whether it is a cinnamon bun glazed with a sweet, white-sugar fondant or a sticky bun with a caramel glaze. Regardless of side issues, such as white versus caramel glazes, the type of nut (usually walnuts versus pecans), or with or without raisins, the real key to this kind of comfort food is a soft, light, tender, slightly sweet dough baked just right. This formula falls in the enriched, not the rich, dough category because the fat content is slightly under 20 percent. I’ve made versions of sweet dough that do indeed contain up to 50 percent fat, but then why eat the buns? You might as well strap them right onto your hips, since that’s where they will end up (or, as one of my customers used to say, “They call them sticky buns because they stick to your buns!”). Between the shortening, eggs, sugar, and milk, there are plenty of enrichments to tenderize this dough without additional fat. However, if you do want to make a more decadent version of cinnamon or sticky buns, try the formula for Middle-Class Brioche on page 127.

Lemon-scented muffins with plump blueberries really hit the spot for breakfast or an afternoon snack.

Homemade corn muffins make mealtime special. Try them with Lima Bean Soup with Ham Bits and Crisp Sage (page 70) or Pecan-Crusted Catfish with Zesty Tartar Sauce (page 106). Any leftover muffins are super for a grab-and-go snack.