Parmesan

Making risotto is a simple matter so long as you keep a careful eye toward the end to prevent overcooking the rice, as the mixture will continue to thicken after it’s taken off the heat. Here, the cooking liquid is also used to rehydrate the porcini mushrooms.

Although traditionally made with rice (riso in Italian), risotto can also be made with pearl barley (and other grains, such as farro) to provide a slightly chewy dish with a nutty flavor.

Think of this hearty casserole of ground lamb in tomato sauce, penne pasta, and a béchamel-and-cheese sauce as the ultimate Greek comfort food.

A bit of butter, parmesan cheese, and fresh basil transforms roasted vegetables into a flavorful sauce for pasta. You could easily modify this recipe to use any vegetables that are in season.

Cauliflower topped with brown butter and bread crumbs is a classic French dish; here the same components (plus sage, often used to flavor brown butter) combine to produce a delicious pasta sauce.

The delicious sauce on this pasta doesn’t require cooking—just a few seconds in the food processor. For the very best flavor, don’t skip the step of toasting the walnuts.

Soaking the strata overnight in the refrigerator before baking will make it even creamier—and reduce prep time in the morning. To test for doneness, pierce center of strata with a sharp knife; it should feel firm and the knife should come out clean.

Although it makes a delightful breakfast, the frittata could also be served with a green salad for a lunch or light dinner. White button mushrooms can be substituted for the shiitakes; trim but do not remove the stems.

USING ROASTED PARSNIP PUREE as a base and adding a few fresh herbs results in rich but still light and flavorful biscuits.

THIS CREAMY SPREAD can be used for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. It adds a tangy element to The Big Omelet (page 210), and spread on bread instead of mayonnaise, it dresses up any sandwich. For an easy appetizer, serve the spread on crostini or with a platter of fresh or grilled vegetables. Artichoke hearts are available in cans or jars, but we prefer canned because they’re brined instead of marinated, lending a milder flavor to the spread. See photograph.

RISOTTO IS A SIMPLE, ELEGANT DISH that acts as a vehicle for a variety of flavors. Adding lemon to risotto is common in Italy, where the subtly flavored dish is often served as an appetizer. I like it as a side to Butter-Rubbed Salmon (page 103) with Blueberry Sauce (page 104) or simply enjoy it as a vegetarian main course, perhaps accompanied by blanched asparagus.

WHILE FRESH MOZZARELLA IS USED IN AN ENDLESS VARIETY of pastas, pizzas, and salads, smoked mozzarella adds more flavor. It is made by smoking cheese over wood to produce a smoky, creamy result. This easy pasta salad makes a standout lunch dish, with the mayonnaise lending extra creaminess. You can adjust the amount of dressing according to taste.

WHEN COLD WEATHER SETTLES IN, it’s time for this rich soup. Bacon adds even deeper flavor to the classic Italian white beans and sage combination. Using nitrate-free bacon is the best option, for both flavor and health reasons, and it’s becoming more widely available.

SMART SUBSTITUTION Using part-skim cheeses—such as the ricotta and mozzarella in this recipe—in place of full-fat versions is one easy way to make a favorite pasta dish healthier. And before they are filled and rolled, the eggplant slices are baked, without any oil, instead of being breaded and fried.

FLAVOR BOOSTERS When reducing the amount of fat added to a quick-cooking dish, a few last-minute additions—such as the fresh lemon juice and parsley in this soup—can have a big impact on the overall taste. A topping of shaved Parmesan also improves the end result.

WHY IT’S LIGHT This Italian restaurant standby turns virtuous with baked (instead of fried) eggplant and a healthier béchamel made from skim milk, which is then combined with some marinara sauce. Using less cheese also helps; here, the two cheeses are sprinkled only on top, rather than in each layer.