Pasta

This is sumptuous and extremely easy. The meat is cooked very slowly for a long time until it is meltingly tender and you can pull the meat off the bones with your fingers. The stuffing—it is the traditional stuffing for a whole lamb—is sweet with dates and raisins and crunchy with almonds. (In Morocco, they add sugar or honey but that makes it too sweet for me.) The couscous needs plenty of butter as there is no sauce, but you can substitute oil if you prefer. Try to get the fine-ground variety of couscous called seffa (see page 28), otherwise use the ordinary medium-ground one. For the dates, use the Tunisian Deglet Nour or Californian varieties that you can find in supermarkets. A shoulder of spring lamb is always fatty but most of the fat melts away during the long cooking. If it appears too fatty, as might be the case with an older lamb, carefully remove some of the fat before cooking.

Because they are small birds, with one per person, it is worth stuffing them. A few butchers sell the special baby Mediterranean pigeons or pigeonneaux or squabs. Otherwise, buy the smallest poussins possible.

The couscous stuffing is the traditional one used for all birds, especially Mediterranean pigeons (the French pigeonneaux or squabs) and chickens. A generous amount of stuffing is made, enough to fill the chicken and to have some on the side, but it makes more sense not actually to bother stuffing the chicken. It is best to use the fine-ground couscous called seffa (see page 28) but you can use the ordinary medium one.

For more information on baked tofu, see page 136. I’d like to see this superb product go mainstream! See the menu with Cold Fresh Tomato Soup (page 17). This would also be just as good served with Fresh Tomato and Corn Soup (page 18).

The contrast of whole grain and pasta makes for a very satisfying side dish. You can also make this by substituting whole grain couscous or quinoa for the bulgur. Serve this with Baked Barbecue Tofu and Peppers (page 141) and a tossed salad for an easy, hearty meal.

This mild side dish complements vegetable curries as well as recipes made with hearty winter vegetables, as in the accompanying menu.

This is a superb accompaniment to curries and other spicy dishes. See the menu with Tofu and Sweet Potato Curry, page 139.

This is a flexible recipe that I frequently rely on when I want an easy, nourishing main dish. I vary the combinations each time I make it. See the cooking notes for specifics on cooking grains in this chapter, and pages 110 to 111 for cooking beans, if you choose to use dried beans.

This basic macaroni and cheese is on the rich side (it just doesn’t work with reduced-fat cheese), but it is so comforting. Even if you don’t have kids, you can make this when you’re in the mood for “nursery food.”

This simply flavored noodle dish is good served with Asian-style tofu dishes. See the menu suggested on page 135 with Sweet and Savory Sautéed or Baked Tofu as well as the one given here. If you can’t find Asian noodles, substitute linguine.

This chapter ends with two child-friendly recipes, hence the smaller portions. If you think your kids would share some with their parents, you can increase the proportions of the recipes.

This nearly-instant dish is fun to eat with chopsticks. In China and Japan, long noodles in broth are “slurped” (yes, this is considered proper table manners); then, the broth is eaten with a spoon. Look for Japanese-style frozen vegetables where other frozen vegetable medleys are shelved in well-stocked supermarkets.

This quick and colorful pasta dish will give you a summery feeling any time of year.

Use hearty pasta from the frozen foods section for this filling dish. All you need to complete this meal is a bountiful salad and some fresh bread. If you’d like, add a steamed green vegetable as well.

Pasta isn’t customarily seasoned with curry, but I’ve long enjoyed this combination.

Here’s another great way to embellish a good prepared pasta sauce.

I like to use a fairly flat noodle, such as farfalle, with mushroom sauces. Do try to use one of the varieties of brown mushrooms suggested for a full-bodied flavor.

Here’s a simple dish that borders on the sublime. In my family, we are all fans of broccoli, so this combination never fails to please. Serve with Mixed Greens with Oranges and Almonds (page 52).

In my family, we like the unembellished flavor of fresh spinach. I often serve it briefly steamed, with just a touch of nonhydrogenated margarine, which makes a great topping for grains as well as mild pasta dishes like this one.

Start with a well-flavored prepared pasta sauce, perhaps one made with chunky vegetables, mushrooms, or bell peppers. With the addition of roasted peppers and dried tomatoes, a special pasta meal can be yours in a flash.